In the heart of India, nestled in the state of Jharkhand, a centuries-old tradition of weaving exquisite silk fabrics continues to thrive. The town of Bhagaiya, known for its vibrant silk industry, stands as a testament to this age-old craft.
Tussar Ghicha silk, a product that has been passed down through generations, plays a pivotal role in the local economy, attracting buyers from across India and beyond. Despite its roots in Jharkhand, the journey of this silk begins in the neighbouring state of Chhattisgarh, where the very cocoons that are essential to the process are harvested.
The Tussar silk, also known as Ghiya silk, comes from the larvae of wild silkworms. These silkworms are found in the tropical, subtropical, and temperate zones of India, particularly in the forests of Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand.
The journey begins at the bustling market in Jagdalpur, Chhattisgarh, where dry Tussar cocoons are sold to traders. These cocoons are then transported to Jharkhand, where the real magic happens.
The silk extraction process in Jharkhand is a delicate, hands-on craft. The cocoons are first soaked in a mixture of sugar, water, and soda, and then boiled. The boiling process softens the silk, making it easier to unravel. The longer the cocoon is boiled, the softer and finer the silk becomes.
Traditionally, this process of unravelling the silk is done by women, who skillfully pull the threads and rub them on their thighs to extract the delicate fibres. This painstaking task requires great expertise and patience, and the women’s role in this process is crucial.
The Role of Women in the Silk Industry
The role of women in the handloom industry is often overlooked, but it is a vital part of the Tussar silk production. Pintu Pandit, the author of “Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach,” wrote about the social and economic challenges faced by handloom workers.
In his book, he describes how handloom employees are often marginalised, with many living in debt and isolation. Despite these challenges, the skill and dedication of women, who contribute significantly to the silk extraction process, should be recognised.
After the silk is removed from the cocoon, the next steps involve drying the threads under the sun and winding them around a tool called Natua. This process is followed by another round of drying before the silk reaches the Rehti, a spinning device that coils the threads into yarn. The yarn is then ready for the next phase: weaving.
The Weaving Process
Once the silk threads are prepared, they are handed over to the male weavers, who use traditional handlooms to create intricate patterns. These weavers employ Korean silk as the warp for the fabric.
Korean silk is stronger and more translucent, enhancing the durability and colour of the Ghicha silk. The addition of Korean silk gives the fabric not only strength but also a subtle sheen that makes it visually striking.
The end result is a beautiful, glossy fabric that is prized for its lustrous golden hue, which is naturally inherent in Tussar silk. This golden sheen, combined with the delicate texture of the fabric, makes Ghicha silk particularly popular for creating sarees, stoles, and dress materials.
The finished products are highly valued for their elegance and sustainability.
The Global Journey of Ghicha Silk
From Jharkhand, the Ghicha silk undergoes a finishing process in Bihar before being sold in markets across India and even abroad. The tradition of handloom weaving, passed down through generations, has shaped an industry that is not only a source of livelihood for many but also a reflection of India’s rich cultural heritage. The weavers, with their expert skills, continue to produce high-quality silk garments that are highly sought after for their beauty and craftsmanship.
Tussar Ghicha silk, a derivative of Tussar silk, is known for its sustainability and eco-friendly properties. It is produced using minimal chemicals and dyes, making it a more natural and environmentally conscious choice compared to other fabrics.
Furthermore, Ghicha silk garments are durable and can withstand wear and tear, making them a practical yet stylish choice for everyday wear, particularly in the hot summer months.
The Cost of Craftsmanship
Sarees made from Ghicha silk typically range from ₹3000 to ₹7000, depending on factors such as the intricacy of the design and the customisation of the piece. This price range reflects the labour-intensive nature of the production process. The silk itself is harvested, boiled, spun, and woven by hand, requiring a significant amount of time and skill.
Unlike mass-produced fabrics, Ghicha silk does not require special care and is well-suited for everyday wear. The unique, naturally occurring dull golden colour of the fabric adds to its charm, making it a popular choice for special occasions like weddings and festivals. Moreover, the weavers often incorporate leftover fibres into the fabric, using them to create intricate motifs and designs that further enhance the beauty of the finished product.
Challenges Faced by Weavers
Despite the growing demand for Ghicha silk, the weavers face significant challenges. Many of them no longer produce the silk unless they have an order, as the process of weaving is time-consuming and requires considerable effort.
A weaver typically earns only ₹550 for each saree, which is a meagre sum considering the amount of labour involved. Additionally, cheaper alternatives available in the market have made it difficult for handwoven products like Ghicha silk sarees to compete.
In response to these challenges, some members of the new generation of weavers are introducing innovative ideas to sustain the art form. By experimenting with new designs, weaving techniques, and marketing strategies, they hope to ensure that this traditional craft remains relevant in the modern world.
Preserving a Tradition
The future of Ghicha silk depends on preserving traditional weaving methods while adapting to changing market dynamics. As younger generations of weavers explore new approaches, there is hope that this age-old craft can continue to thrive.
Whether through the incorporation of sustainable practices or the introduction of contemporary designs, the goal is to keep the legacy of Tussar Ghicha silk alive for future generations.
Tussar Ghicha silk is not just a fabric; it is a reflection of India’s rich cultural heritage and the dedication of the artisans who have kept the tradition alive for centuries. From the initial harvesting of the Tussar cocoons in Chhattisgarh to the meticulous process of weaving in Jharkhand, every step of the journey is a testament to the skill, patience, and ingenuity of the people involved.
As demand for sustainable, handcrafted textiles continues to grow, Ghicha silk’s place in the global marketplace seems secure. However, for this craft to truly flourish, it is essential that the efforts of the weavers are supported and celebrated, ensuring that this beautiful tradition continues to be passed down through the generations.
-30-
Copyright©Madras Courier, All Rights Reserved. You may share using our article tools. Please don't cut articles from madrascourier.com and redistribute by email, post to the web, mobile phone or social media.Please send in your feed back and comments to [email protected]
